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Guide :Fish : Slim Power Filters: S20 - up to 20 gallons A287 - Aquarium...

How do i install it to my tank? - Marina Slim Power Filters: S20 - up to 20 gallons A287 - Aquarium Power

Posted by deborahhamil on Jul 17, 2012

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Instruction Manuals for Hagen Products | Download a Hagen ...

Marina Slim Filter Manual - S10, S15, S20 - A285/A286/A287 : Adobe Acrobat: Marina Splash Aquarium Kit ... AquaClear Power Filters - 20, 30, 50, ...
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I have a new 306 fluval cannister filter-the flow is not strong at all-just wondered, is it supposed to be a strong flow or gentle return back into tank?

A 306 should be quite strong, first check the flow regulator is fully open, check that the filter motor is the right way round on the filter bucket, check hoses, inlets and outlets for obstructions, try running without media in the filter bucket. Best to try this stuff in the bath!!!
Read More At : Fluval 306 External Filter For Aquariums Up To 70 Gallons...

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Fluval u2 aquarium filter will not restart after tank maintenance

Editing my initial response, still posted below on what is the more common cause of water pumps not starting when they are plugged back in. The beneficial bacterial we keep on our filter media for our biological filtration live on all surface areas in the water, preferring good water flow, low light, and good oxygen levels. Water flow happens around your magnetic impeller in your pump, so the bacteria grow on it and on the impeller housing. Just this growth is enough to cause the impeller to seize if it has stopped spinning and is started again. Seized impellers can overheat and melt a pump too, so unplug if it isn't working.This is true for power outages too, so it's a good practice to take your water pumps apart and clean them every few-several months. Open the pump, remove the impeller. Google it if you don't know what it looks like. Use your wife's toothbrush, because she's the sweet one, to clean the magnet and the plastic impeller assembly, and also the housing/hole the impeller sits in. The impeller shaft (getting the theme here?) will come out with the impeller assembly, or remain in the impeller housing, depending on the pump. Brush that too if you can. Once nothing feels slippery slimy like the insides of a sewage seeping... ha ha! Got ya! When it's clean re-assemble. Don't force pieces.With dry hands, a quick in and out of the plug into the socket can tell you if the impeller is seated and will spin, but this isn't necessary until your second time taking it apart. Rule of thumb: never run your water pump dry. That makes sense!To restart: For powerheads, submerge them, for canisters, close them and fill with tank water.The secret: remove the air that is trapped. If it isn't slime that's seizing your impeller, it could be air and water teaming up to spite you.How: Force water though the unit by putting the intake hose up to the output of another water pump - if you don't have a don't have your tank electrically grounded with a $15 aquarium probe and you get electrocuted, you won't hear me saying I told you so. It was only $15. Or fill the canister with tank water via the power of the siphon! Once your siphon is started, you should be able to plug in and the impeller will spin for sure because the water is already moving it. Normally, once the air is clear, the impeller will spin. Another trick that sometimes works is to try to "jump start" the impeller by giving it short bursts of power ~ pushing the plug in far enough to get current, then pulling it back out of the socket quickly. This works sometimes, but don't stand there and do it until it works. That might be bad, or just nonproductive.Why I went off on an o-ring trip I don't know, except that it applies to canisters, as does the rest after that about how I avoid all this. Good luck!This problem may be caused by an improperly seated O ring, or whatever shape the rubber seal takes. These can be very tricky and require several attempts at getting the top on the canister without moving the O ring. Even a small amount of rolling one section of the ring by placing the top on unevenly can affect the diameter of the O ring and allow air to get in. Put the O ring on snugly and evenly, trying to place it in a way that it will not be able to be pushed down further when the top is put on. It doesn\'t hurt to try a bit of lubrication on the ring and the areas where it meets the canister and the top with a bit of tank water. Obviously don\'t use anything but tank water to lubricate the O ring. This hassle is one of the primary reasons I used canister filters only for biological filtration. I don\'t use them for chemical filtration because I don\'t want to open them up to replace carbon/charcoal/zeolite. I fill them full of ceramic or plastic biological surface area materials, and some foam blocks made for the same purpose to, protect the impeller from being seized by debris in the filter/water. Water intake hoses are always prefiltered with a sponge filter (foam is better - sponges are very porous and get clogged faster) or a basket wrapped in a nylon mesh bag. Aquaclear had a prefilter for their powerheads that worked very nicely. I would remove the inner sleeve so the unit was empty, attach it to the filter intake hose, then put the entire end inside a nylon mesh bag. This kept flakes and pellets, fish, plant pieces, gravel, sand, and all other materials out of the canister. The basic picture in your mind should be a plastic laundry basket with the end of the hose inside it, all tied up in a ***** hose. Not supporting any particular dealer. Just grabbed the first link I could find: AquaClear Quick Filter Powerhead Attachment These will have to be attached to intake hoses in someway. I usually would increase the diameter of the intake hose by adding a short section of garden hose on the end of the filter intake hose. Google : The nylon mesh bag should be long enough that it can go over the plastic framework and be tied around the intake hose. Tuck the drawstring of the bag on the inside of the bag so you don\'t have it out in the tank. Google : Use a plastic hose clamp (only easy to find at good aquarium stores - home supply stores don\'t usually carry them) to secure the bag to the hose after pulling it closed with the drawstring. This page Sponge Filtration Information How Sponge Filters Work Benefits of using... has some great information on sponge filters, including this picture which shows the two different materials used for sponge filters. These can be used as prefilters for water pumps and canister filters. However over time they will need to be removed and cleaned due to blocked water flow. As time goes by, they will need to be cleaned sooner and with decreasing intervals of time between cleaning, and eventually need to be replaced. They do help to increase the amount of biological filtration surface area, and they are very nice for using in stores and multiple tank set ups. The advantage of the nylon mesh bag closed over a plastic frame is it can easily be cleaned with a toothbrush by simply brushing the clogged areas of the mesh. I use only biological filtration media inside my canisters: aquarium biological filter media Google Search . Anything that has a large amount of surface area and that is small enough that I can get a lot of it inside the canister. Between this media and the impeller/impeller housing area of the filter I use the coarse foam, like the black material pictured in the sponge filter above, (usually a canister filter will have this, and replacements can be purchased if I want more than one) to help prevent anything from getting to the impeller and seizing it.
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