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Is it possible to make my own, inexpensive cooling system for my salt water aquarium?

Posted by ricky snow on May 13, 2012

Research, Knowledge and Information :

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Caudata Culture Articles - Cooling

Aquarium Cooling Methods ... Why cool my aquarium? To make the captive environment more like nature. ... screen is cheap. The water (only 2-5 inches; ...
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Aug 02, 2010 · MAKE A LOW COST AQUARIUM COOLING COOLER SYSTEM simpledate. ... Verify the PH of your aquarium as the copper may leach in the water and kill your fish.

How to cool an aquarium 10 DEGREES! for under $20 DIY

Apr 30, 2013 · How to cool an aquarium 10 DEGREES! for ... USE distilled or good RO water to refill your tank ... MAKE A LOW COST AQUARIUM COOLING COOLER SYSTEM ...

Beat the Heat: Aquarium Cooling Methods by Kevin Kocot ...

Beat the Heat: Aquarium Cooling ... perform a check of your aquarium system and make ... thus keeping heat within the aquarium. A possible substitute for a ...
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Saltwater Aquarium - The Spruce - Make Your Best Home

Here's How to Make Your Own Fishing Net: ... How to Remove Chlorine and Chlorimines From Tap Water for ... Choosing a Filtration System for Your Saltwater Aquarium ...
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Making your own salt water - The Reef Tank

Herro - I would like to start making my own salt water. Right now I have to drive 20 minutes each way to the LFS and it costs me about $20 every three weeks to get ...
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DIY Chiller from air dehumidifier - Jon Olavs Akvarium

DIY Chilling This is an old and never ending discussion in the aquarium hobby. Can you make your own ... If this happens with my system the water inside the ...
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How to Make an Aquarium (with Pictures) - wikiHow

Apr 26, 2016 · How to Make an Aquarium. Building your own tank is a ... Set up a filter system if need ... if you work with a few inches of water in your aquarium.
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Suggested Questions And Answer :

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Is it possible to make my own, inexpensive cooling system for my salt water aquarium?

It is possible to make your own cooling system for anaquarium. It is simple to do but it willtake you some time because there are a lot of steps. As with any DIY project, it is important toask yourself if it is cost effective, based on the cost of supplies and thetime it will take to assemble. If youhave decided that it's worth it, check out this video for detailed instructionson building your own salt water aquarium cooling system:
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Why do salt water aquariums need heating and cooling units?

Most saltwater aquariums are generally used to housetropical fish. Tropical fish are fromthe Tropics (the area of the planet around the equator.) The water temperature varies in differentlatitudes and depths, but it tends to stay between 77-80F (about25-27C). Therefore, you want to houseyour fish in the environment that is most like the one they are accustomed to,if you want them to stay healthy. Therefore, maintaining aquarium temperature with heating and coolingunits is essential.
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How can I prevent my Saltwater aquariums from accumulating so much salt on the outside of the tank.I have to clean saltwater build up at least every 3 days.I have a 125 Gallon and also a 55 Gallon Sal

I am no expert on saltwater tanks, but I am wondering what temperature you are keeping the tanks. The water evaporation rate of the tank depends on the temperature and humidity of the room the tank is in. Lowering the tank temperature to around 70-72 `F and increasing the ambient humidity to 60+% RH will reduce evaporation which will result in less salt encrustation.
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Can I make my own aquarium?

We provide you with fully fledged installations in which everything would be included. We provide a fully automated system that feeds fish at regular intervals and operates lighting. Our team of experts will do a water change regularly see at our website!
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1 timer cycles on its own and 1 will not

You need to run another circuit from your breaker box or get a filter for your timer. From what I can make from your explanation you have the circuit loaded and are more than likely either creating an overload or certainly enough EMF to interfear with the timers
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Fluval u2 aquarium filter will not restart after tank maintenance

Editing my initial response, still posted below on what is the more common cause of water pumps not starting when they are plugged back in. The beneficial bacterial we keep on our filter media for our biological filtration live on all surface areas in the water, preferring good water flow, low light, and good oxygen levels. Water flow happens around your magnetic impeller in your pump, so the bacteria grow on it and on the impeller housing. Just this growth is enough to cause the impeller to seize if it has stopped spinning and is started again. Seized impellers can overheat and melt a pump too, so unplug if it isn't working.This is true for power outages too, so it's a good practice to take your water pumps apart and clean them every few-several months. Open the pump, remove the impeller. Google it if you don't know what it looks like. Use your wife's toothbrush, because she's the sweet one, to clean the magnet and the plastic impeller assembly, and also the housing/hole the impeller sits in. The impeller shaft (getting the theme here?) will come out with the impeller assembly, or remain in the impeller housing, depending on the pump. Brush that too if you can. Once nothing feels slippery slimy like the insides of a sewage seeping... ha ha! Got ya! When it's clean re-assemble. Don't force pieces.With dry hands, a quick in and out of the plug into the socket can tell you if the impeller is seated and will spin, but this isn't necessary until your second time taking it apart. Rule of thumb: never run your water pump dry. That makes sense!To restart: For powerheads, submerge them, for canisters, close them and fill with tank water.The secret: remove the air that is trapped. If it isn't slime that's seizing your impeller, it could be air and water teaming up to spite you.How: Force water though the unit by putting the intake hose up to the output of another water pump - if you don't have a don't have your tank electrically grounded with a $15 aquarium probe and you get electrocuted, you won't hear me saying I told you so. It was only $15. Or fill the canister with tank water via the power of the siphon! Once your siphon is started, you should be able to plug in and the impeller will spin for sure because the water is already moving it. Normally, once the air is clear, the impeller will spin. Another trick that sometimes works is to try to "jump start" the impeller by giving it short bursts of power ~ pushing the plug in far enough to get current, then pulling it back out of the socket quickly. This works sometimes, but don't stand there and do it until it works. That might be bad, or just nonproductive.Why I went off on an o-ring trip I don't know, except that it applies to canisters, as does the rest after that about how I avoid all this. Good luck!This problem may be caused by an improperly seated O ring, or whatever shape the rubber seal takes. These can be very tricky and require several attempts at getting the top on the canister without moving the O ring. Even a small amount of rolling one section of the ring by placing the top on unevenly can affect the diameter of the O ring and allow air to get in. Put the O ring on snugly and evenly, trying to place it in a way that it will not be able to be pushed down further when the top is put on. It doesn\'t hurt to try a bit of lubrication on the ring and the areas where it meets the canister and the top with a bit of tank water. Obviously don\'t use anything but tank water to lubricate the O ring. This hassle is one of the primary reasons I used canister filters only for biological filtration. I don\'t use them for chemical filtration because I don\'t want to open them up to replace carbon/charcoal/zeolite. I fill them full of ceramic or plastic biological surface area materials, and some foam blocks made for the same purpose to, protect the impeller from being seized by debris in the filter/water. Water intake hoses are always prefiltered with a sponge filter (foam is better - sponges are very porous and get clogged faster) or a basket wrapped in a nylon mesh bag. Aquaclear had a prefilter for their powerheads that worked very nicely. I would remove the inner sleeve so the unit was empty, attach it to the filter intake hose, then put the entire end inside a nylon mesh bag. This kept flakes and pellets, fish, plant pieces, gravel, sand, and all other materials out of the canister. The basic picture in your mind should be a plastic laundry basket with the end of the hose inside it, all tied up in a ***** hose. Not supporting any particular dealer. Just grabbed the first link I could find: AquaClear Quick Filter Powerhead Attachment These will have to be attached to intake hoses in someway. I usually would increase the diameter of the intake hose by adding a short section of garden hose on the end of the filter intake hose. Google : The nylon mesh bag should be long enough that it can go over the plastic framework and be tied around the intake hose. Tuck the drawstring of the bag on the inside of the bag so you don\'t have it out in the tank. Google : Use a plastic hose clamp (only easy to find at good aquarium stores - home supply stores don\'t usually carry them) to secure the bag to the hose after pulling it closed with the drawstring. This page Sponge Filtration Information How Sponge Filters Work Benefits of using... has some great information on sponge filters, including this picture which shows the two different materials used for sponge filters. These can be used as prefilters for water pumps and canister filters. However over time they will need to be removed and cleaned due to blocked water flow. As time goes by, they will need to be cleaned sooner and with decreasing intervals of time between cleaning, and eventually need to be replaced. They do help to increase the amount of biological filtration surface area, and they are very nice for using in stores and multiple tank set ups. The advantage of the nylon mesh bag closed over a plastic frame is it can easily be cleaned with a toothbrush by simply brushing the clogged areas of the mesh. I use only biological filtration media inside my canisters: aquarium biological filter media Google Search . Anything that has a large amount of surface area and that is small enough that I can get a lot of it inside the canister. Between this media and the impeller/impeller housing area of the filter I use the coarse foam, like the black material pictured in the sponge filter above, (usually a canister filter will have this, and replacements can be purchased if I want more than one) to help prevent anything from getting to the impeller and seizing it.
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