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Guide :Fish : Fish

Does an aquarium filled with goldfish need a filter?

Posted by cbaby sixninefour on May 13, 2012

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Do goldfish need an air pump? - The Goldfish Tank

An air pump does not filter the ... Do goldfish need an air pump? New goldfish keepers often see air pumps in goldfish tanks and assume that they are strictly ...
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Goldfish and Aquarium Board Articles Aquarium Filters and Filter Media ... Even with a good filter, you will need to perform regular PWCs that include vacuuming your ...
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Gravel is the preferred choice over sand in a freshwater aquarium. Q. Does my Whisper ® Power Filter put ... goldfish should not be mixed ... aquarium will need 16 ...
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Beginners Guide to Successful Fishkeeping ... An aquarium filled with water and gravel weighs ... You will need to replace your filter cartridge and perform a 25 ...
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Do goldfish need a air pump?? | Mumsnet Discussion

» Do goldfish need a air ... you do need a filter, especially for goldfish" ... goldfish and any other kind of aquarium fish other than goldfish always used to ...
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ensure they keep your goldfish in top condition. Goldfish care Planning your ... A filled aquarium is heavy, ... and so you will need a proper aquarium light unit.
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How to Make a Goldfish Live for Decades - wikiHow

Mar 07, 2016 · How to Make a Goldfish Live for Decades. ... your goldfish aquarium will have more than enough bacteria to ... you will need a filter that cycles 200 ...
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Fish Tank & Aquarium Filters | PetSmart

Choose the right aquarium filter for your tank. Shop PetSmart for the latest fish tank filters, replacement parts and more. PetSmart. ... Goldfish, Betta & More.
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Does an aquarium filled with goldfish need a filter?

Yes. They require a filter. To expand on the other answer here for a bit of clarification: Goldfish can survive in a fish bowl or small tank without a filter ~ until they die from living in their own pis... oh sorry, waste. Goldfish produce more waste than many other fish. All fish produce ammonia just like we do. We flush the toilet. They swim around. A "biological" filter is your pet metropolis of beneficial bacteria that LIVE ON THE FILTER MEDIA. The filter media is the LARGE AMOUNT OF SURFACE AREA IN YOUR FILTER THAT WATER FLOWS THROUGH THAT YOU DON'T CLEAN AND YOU DON'T THROW AWAY AND REPLACE BECAUSE SOMEONE TOLD YOU TO - a sponge/foam block, a mass of plastic pieces or floss, or gravel (under gravel filters). One bacterial culture consumes ammonia and turns it into nitrate. (In new tanks and tanks that bacteria have been killed off due to cleaning filters, the build up of ammonia is the cause of your cloudy white water at about day 2-3. You're at the surface gasping because there's no oxygen in the water and your gills are burning just like when you clean a bathroom that isn't ventilated with ammonia, but more fishy. Yum! Growing this first culture naturally at about 78°F happens in a week or so.) Ammonia collects at the surface, seen from below as a white film, bubbles don't pop. Sound familiar? Makes you susceptible to disease and parasites, like that ich that's air borne and basically just always there! But relief is on the way, in a week or so, if it's warm. By now the first culture is now happily turning the bad ammonia into, oh no... bad nitrite!! But hey! You're a good S/He because at least you're not leaving me in that toilet bowl. Nitrites are also toxic. Sensitive fish will likely get sick and/or die. You start a new tank with a hardy fish, or just a bit of food to decay into ammonia, or buy a product to speed it up ("Cycle" ? It's been a long time and I don't feel like doing your work - and you'll still have your toxic ammonia and nitrite spikes during the cycle, so still best to do it with fewer fish in a large body of water because chemicals will be effectively diluted.) It happens naturally in 4-6 weeks at tropical aquarium temperatures. Second culture grows, about week 2-3, living in the same place, that takes a molecule off the nitrites and turns them into nitrates. Not toxic, but nitrates gradually increase. High nitrate levels can cause bad reactions for fish when that have not had time to adjust to them gradually. This drastic chemistry change affects: a new fish added to an established tank that you don't do regular partial water changes on, and, your established fish if doing a huge water change, simply as an excuse to get out of having to take your required yearly shower. Rapid and drastic fluctuations in water temperature and chemistry/quality cause stress = opportunity for disease and parasites. Aaaaand...... ammonium nitrate is plant food! So here comes your various algae at around week 2-3. If you don't like it, turn the lights off except for a few hours in the evening when you're actually looking at your tank. Your fish can see just fine. Unless you have plants. Which you should try to do because they, yes, consume nitrate and create a BALANCED system (or at least the start of an ecosystem) which can eventually mean less work for you and more time to just enjoy the fish. (Why you wanted them in the first place.) Your two beneficial bacterial culture pets, who love you and consider you to be their divine protector, and have probably developed religions and built tiny churches all devoted to you, live on all surface areas in your tank, but they especially like more oxygen, less light, and decent water flow. Since they won't be coming to see you, your main interaction with them is going to be when you take that large piece of surface area in your filter and do something with it. This should be about the same time you decide it is a good idea to take your fish out and wash them in the sink. So, NEVER. You need an established filter to keep an established tank. If your filter company tells you to replace this carbon and floss and foam media every month or whatever, they're making money and good for them. Yes, carbon, and other "chemical filtration" media do need to be changed, but if that is all your filter has in it, where do you think they intended your bacteria to live? Oh, they didn't? Well that's not a very responsible aquarium filter manufacturing company now, is it? When you remove your established bacterial filter and put a new one in, you remove all the biological filtration that is on that surface area. If you take it out of your filter and clean it in tap water, you kill the bacteria. Make sure your main home for your beneficial bacteria is never cleaned or removed and replaced. If you see it is visually clogged and slowing water flow through the media, submerge it into the water you take out of your tank during your regular partial water change (gonna get that tattooed on my forehead) and shake it about to remove the build up, then put it back in the tank water. For tank maintenance and "other" if I remember correctly the bacteria are ok in stagnant tank water for 48 hours. Temperature controlled is best too, so just take the filter media and put it in with your fish if you're moving or doing big maintenance. Better with them anyway to help with doing their job and giving scared fish places to hide under, since you have your bubbler and your heater set up for the fish. Always dechlorinate all water before adding it to your tank, then you don't have to worry about pouring it into your filter intakes and harming your bacteria. So now you have two bacterial cultures living on this surface area in your filter. It's your pet. They take the bad ammonia and nitrite and give you nitrates. YOU do REGULAR, PARTIAL water changes. Doesn't matter how much, how often, because everyone says something different, and honestly, you're flushing the toilet here, so only you know how much you need to flush. If you over stock and over feed: too many fish, lots of food, lots of proteins, lots of left over food... you need to flush more. Easy rule of thumb is 25% a week. Mark half way up the water level of your tank, then mark half way up that. Siphon water off to that line. Vacuum gravel while doing this if you use gravel (1/4 to 1/2 inch across the bottom of the tank means less to have to clean. Sand (aquarium appropriate) and smaller grained gravels have less spaces between pieces. Big spaces between larger size gravel will trap detritus (decaying organic material) and need to be vacuumed. Smaller spaces between small gravel pieces, or between grains of sand, keep detritus on the surface where circulation from pumps can bring it into the water column so filters can remove it. (You want to choose sand because I like that!) Be kind to your back. If you're young, you probably won't remember reading this anyway. Invest in a long enough hose/tubing to reach out your door to your garden/yard, or to your toilet. Clear tubing is available at home supply stores by the foot. Thinner tubing kinks easily, thicker can be harder to manipulate. Fasten the out end of the hose to be sure the water goes where you want it to and avoid moppage. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT ALLOW YOUR FISH TO GET INTO YOUR SIPHON. Because you know you're going to have to say that to some one. Even if you're paying attention and a fish gets past your guard to score one for the tank, you've got your hose emptying into a fish net over the bucket, toilet bowl, roses, so no one goes down the drain, which will not lead Nemo to a happy ending. Remember ammonium nitrate is a plant food? You know this because you read the ingredients when you bought it. Well, water your roses. And google "refugiums", "algae scrubbers", and learn which plants will live in, or growing out of, your water. Like fish, plants have requirements. Get plants that like to live in your world. I like low light, hardy plants. If it is alive, if you find yourself saying you want to keep it, the next thing you should be doing is EDUCATING YOURSELF about if you can and should keep it ALIVE. The internet makes this really easy. Find a forum of experts. Or waste your money and kill things. I met a 15 year old black moor goldfish the size of a nerf football. Check the adult size of the fish you want and make sure you have the room to keep that fish as an adult. Keeping a large fish in a small space results in a misshapen, stunted body for some fish. There are a lot of small fish that are very happy in your smaller tank. If you want a bowl, get a couple of danios. They are much more hardy and can tolerate the fluctuations. Danios are coffeed up little fish to keep tiny eyes interested. I would say google glofish, but that shows images of tetra species too, which are injected with dye with needles, or dyed in a solution. These oh so kind and human practices which make your toddlers happy until the fish dies, or the colors fade in 3-4 months. That's ok. Flush them and buy some more! They're just fish. So google "glo danio" and just "danio" for those of you who don't need a Lisa Frank tank. The glo danios have been modified with a jellyfish gene to give them these bright colors and a sweet, sugary cherry flavor. The colors don't fade, and the fish are not adversely affected by the process, and have been around for at least a decade being born this way, to the best of my knowledge. I don't really care because I don't like danios. They bite at fins of betas, which I do like. Also, giant danios are not the same as danios, and so will not be ideal for your bowl or small tank now devoid of gold fish. The clue is in the giant part of the name. Also, the cherry flavor is not true. But they are sweet and sugary. A bowl is unfair to the fish. Minimum for a beta should be a gallon of water. Not a gallon fish bowl, but a gallon of water, by volume. I can only pour 40 gallons of water into my tank that was sold to me as a 60 gallon tank. 20 gallons is a big difference when you're medicating, dosing, or making decisions based on water volume. Know your true water volume, including displacement from rocks, gravel, blah blah blah. Do this by counting the gallons when you fill it up the first time.Hey! I bought a cactus from the Czech Republic because it's cool looking so I looked it up and learned that I can take care of it! It just got here. Sorry about any holes in the info here, but I don't feel like editing. (I edited. I am weak.) Good luck with your fish soup bowl.
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How can I prevent my Saltwater aquariums from accumulating so much salt on the outside of the tank.I have to clean saltwater build up at least every 3 days.I have a 125 Gallon and also a 55 Gallon Sal

I am no expert on saltwater tanks, but I am wondering what temperature you are keeping the tanks. The water evaporation rate of the tank depends on the temperature and humidity of the room the tank is in. Lowering the tank temperature to around 70-72 `F and increasing the ambient humidity to 60+% RH will reduce evaporation which will result in less salt encrustation.
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